Thursday, January 29, 2009

Techniques For Altering Sleeves

By Donna Trumble

A friend of mine called the other day and told me that she had just bought a new blouse. The only problem was that it had long sleeves. I told her to shorten the sleeve, but she was worried she might make a mistake and ruin the blouse.

We live in Texas where it frequently reaches a hundred degrees during the summer. Long sleeved shirts are just too hot to wear. So one day, my husband and I decided we would just shorten a bunch of his long sleeved shirts. It is just like having brand new shirts.

Long sleeves can easily be shortened or made into short sleeves. Indeed, you can alter the length of a sleeve almost at will. This is until you have already cut off part of the sleeve. The goal is to alter the sleeve correctly.

What kind of sleeve would you like? You can create many variations including short sleeve, sleeveless, or three quarter sleeve. In addition to length you can add creative touches like cuffs, lace, or frills. There are lots of choices, but once you understand the basics, the project is quite easy.

Initially, identify how long you want the sleeve to be. Since you have many options, you must decide. If it is helpful compare other shirts you have until you get a good idea what you really want.

Now that you have a clear idea what length you want, measure from the top seam at the shoulder down to the point you want your sleeve to end. Then measure from the under arm seam to the same point parallel point on the sleeve. To this measurement, add one and a half inches. Mark the sleeve straight across with a fabric marker.

Third, Cut the sleeve straight across, connecting both under arm and top sleeve measurements.

Step Four, remove the stitching along the inside of the sleeve to the underarm seam. Keep in mind that the shape of the sleeve tapers. You will need to carefully reshape the sleeve to avoid binding under the arm. To accomplish this, seam on the inside of the sleeve along the taper.

To accommodate for the tapering, you will need to reverse the taper angle for the final inch and a half. This way when the hem is folded in, it will match the taper.

Finally, finish the sleeve hem. Here you have several choices depending on the general style of the shirt. You may install a cuff or not. You may finish with top stitching or blind hem. In either case, the procedure is much the same. Fold the edge of the sleeve under half an inch and press it. Fold it under again one inch and press. Finally, sew the seam as decided.

If you plan to use a blind hem, you can accomplish your sewing using you sewing machine blind hem stitch with its appropriate blind hem foot. Or if you plan to do many hems, there is a great specialty machine called a blind hemmer that produced a professional blind hem perfect for sleeves, slacks, dresses, skirts, wherever you may need a blind hem. - 15683

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